| Archive for Dr. Grabow Pipes "America's One and Only" |
| steverino |
Anybody want Dukes? (Now with pictures)I have some Dukes that I think I want to get rid of. I would probably like to trade them for other pipes but will sell them if necessary. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll go buy another camera battery and take some pictures. |
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| ozark southpaw |
Steve,what kind of Dukes? | ||||
| steverino |
OS, the ones I'm looking at right now are two dublins, two bulldogs, a billiard and a 6-panel dublin. I think I might have a couple more somewhere. I'll try to get a battery tomorrow and post a couple of pictures. | ||||
| steverino |
As promised, here are the pictures of my dukes. There are 9 in all. Some are better than others. Here is the main bunch:
And here are three more: 
There are various cosmetic problems with most of them and one or two structural problems. Ask me if in doubt. Rather than posting a bunch of pictures, here is the link to the album that has all the pictures. Feel free to browse. If anyone wants to trade for the whole set, the pipe holder will be included. What does Steverino want in trade? I collect Eldorados, Commodores and Regals primarily, and don't mind accumulating Viscounts, Starfires and Hillcrests. Heck, Omegas don't bother me a bit, either. I would be willing to trade on a two to one basis; i.e., two Dukes for one of whatever you've got that I like. Kaywoodies also welcome, depending on model. And if anyone really, really wants these Dukes, I'd probably take one Peterson, Stanwell or other mid-grade brand, again, depending on model, condition, etc. Thanks for looking. |
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| steverino |
In case anyone thinks they may be interested in trading, I'm going to leave the trade open until the end of the week then will post them somewhere else. Wanted to give DGCF members first choice. | ||||
| ahgar |
i'm interested in your dukes if you still have them would you please email me at jgp6204@att.net
thanks, ahgar |
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| steverino |
Ahgar, I think Barry (BWThomas) is interested in them. If that doesn't pan out, I'll let you know.
Thanks! |
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| steverino |
Trade completed. Watch the Trading Post for more great DG pipes coming soon! | ||||
| ahgar |
Dang, no problem i'll keep checking. ahgar | ||||
| BWThomas |
I started working on these pipes I acquired from Steve. I had intended to just refinish them back to their original finish. But one I got the color off them, I kind of like what I see.
  
click to enlarge These haven't seen the buffer yet, just a coat of hand buffed wax. |
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| steverino |
Looking good Barry, you may give Ed a run for his money. | ||||
| BWThomas |
I might be able to chase him, don't think I could ever catch him |
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| ozark southpaw |
Wouldn't be to hard to catch! After 50 feet at a hard run I pass out! Lookin' good!! Especially for Dukes!! You can sometimes find some real nice pipes under that lacquer and some nice color to the briar. I leave a lot of the pipes I refinish unstained. |
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| drbridges |
Yep, they're beautiful, and for the life of me I can't figure out why DG insists on staining them. In Barry's Photobucket album there is a Wellington with a surface blemish I find attractive. If that represents the sort of "flaws" DG carves and fills to hide, I wish they would leave them to show.
IOW, Burns could save some time & money, and please me all at the same time. |
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| LokoMac8 |
I agree -- LQQKING GOOD! I have always prefered lighter stains, etc., but without even realizing it, I think my prejudice against the Dukes wasn't just because they are filter pipes, but that they were too dark. After seeing Barry's I am really impressed at seeing how good they CAN look! --RJ-- |
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| steverino |
I tell ya, Barry's pictures really inspired me to action. I went down into the shop and sanded off the top of that really bad Emperor 65 that I showed a picture of a while back. When I get time, I'm going to finish working on the rim and then take the finish off the rest of it and redo it with some kind of light finish. Has anyone ever used something like tung oil or danish oil on a pipe or is that not good to use for something that gets hot? | ||||
| ozark southpaw |
Never tried it Steve but what you might do is try it on a Duke or Lark etc( or a Peterson) to see what happens when you smoke it,before putting it on your Emperor! | ||||
| ozark southpaw |
Or just leave it natural with a coat of wax. Over time time it will take on a nice color!! | ||||
| steverino |
CUTE 
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| steverino |
Yeah, that might be what I do, depending on how the wood looks, and from what just the rim looks like, it may be really nice. Also, I remembered that there is a finish that you can put on things meant for food, like when you turn a wooden bowl, make a cutting board, etc. May look into that as well. Or just use the water-based stains, who knows. Thanks Ed. |
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| ozark southpaw |
Never tried any water based stains on a pipe,always used the alcohol based. | ||||
| steverino |
I think alcohol is what I meant, don't know why I said water, just a brain f*rt I guess. | ||||
| ozark southpaw |
I have those-quite often!! | ||||
| Rev. Avery |
Nice work BW on those pipes! Makes me want to learn to do some refinishing 
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| BWThomas |
Thanks Rev, Ed was and is my inspiration. Once I got my hands on one of his pipes, I wasn't happy with the condition of any of mine, even new off the shelf. It's an easy thing to do. Just takes time, elbow grease, determination, conviction and attention to detail. Ed has proven he is the master at that. Take shortcuts and come up short. Stick to it and you'll find the diamond in that rough Grabow. BW |
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| BWThomas |
I did use a water based Minwax stain on a pipe, and on furniture. Result wasn't too bad, but I think the alcohol based stains give sharper grain resolution. The water based stuff looks kind of muddy. Alcohol is the best solvent to use for anything you put on a pipe. Your best bet is to go with wax. You can also use olive oil, or mineral oil if you're wanting a matte finish. Tung oil can be used for salad bowls and cutting boards. What I don't like about tung oil is that the commercial preparations use petro based solvents. They are supposed to be safe for contact with food after 48 hours, but I don't like the idea of saturating the briar with such solvents. Carnauba wax is best applied with a cotton buff wheel, but you can get excellent results by dissolving the wax with either odorless mineral spirits or naptha (same as lighter fluid) Other spirits (turpentine, paint thinners)will dissolve the wax for hand application but they leave behind a a strong odor. Naptha has a strong smell, but it evaporates very quickly, leaving next to nothing behind. When low on pure carnauba wax flakes or block, I fall back to my trusty Butcher's bowling alley wax. This paste wax is a combination of carnauba and beeswax and uses mineral spirits and turpentine as a solvent. It is easy to apply and polishes easily by hand. I've been using this product on wood and wood furniture for years. |
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| LokoMac8 |
Love these addtional ideas! I have plenty of carnauba wax, but don't like applying it with a buffing wheel (which was the only way I ever heard of doing it). Might try some of your suggestions. --RJ-- |
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| ahgar |
beautiful work, they look great. also thanks for the wax tips. ahgar | ||||
| atlacatl |
Nice work on those pipes. Please post how you did that. I want to do the same with various pipes I own. | ||||