steverino
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Stuck stemOkay fellas, I may need a little assistance here. I just received an Eldorado triangle shank and the stem is stuck. The thing that's a little different on this one is that the stem turns relatively freely in either direction because of the ajusto, so I can't get much traction to try to get the threads broken loose. Any suggestions?
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LokoMac8
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Re: Stuck stem | steverino wrote: | | Okay fellas, I may need a little assistance here. I just received an Eldorado triangle shank and the stem is stuck. The thing that's a little different on this one is that the stem turns relatively freely in either direction because of the ajusto, so I can't get much traction to try to get the threads broken loose. Any suggestions? |
First of all, get the biggest, heaviest ball-peen hammer you can find and lay it closely beside the pipe. The first thing is to introduce a little fear into the subject. If pipes have any feelings whatsoever, this should get things off to a good start. Try to resist actually using the hammer, though with the hammer sitting this close, as this process proceeds, that may be very difficult.
This is a really a good thread. That Eldorado Author that I brought to Sprata for our "show and tell" session, which was almost in mint and unsmoked condition when I received it suffered from this malady. I don't know what type of corrosion it is, as galvanic corrosion that aluminum so often suffers from, is usually the result of action from dissimilar metals being combined in a joint that hasn't been treated. Whatever it is, it's sort of white and powdery and can start or accumulate apparently without moisture or other outside "help". I tried everything and was down to a last ditch effort of destroying the entire pipe to accomplish the task. As I might have related before, I buy pipes to SMOKE and ENJOY, not to look at, so I wasn't giving up. The method that worked, that was an all or nothing effort, was using vise grips, of all things, and basically squeezing the bit enough to seize up the Ajustomatic feature and force the threads to turn. It worked and finally busted loose, HOWEVER, even after taking precautions to cushion the pliar jaws and teeth from marring the stem, you saw that it did leave a couple of marks. There was no slippage, though, and I am sure that if I cared to and had the skill and equipment (like OS), they could be completely removed.
I am not a very patient man, but what I think I would try first (I was a bit hesitant to do this anyway, as I was afraid of what soak into the briar and become a flavoring agent forevermore) is getting some sort of penatrating oil to the corroded threads some how. I think DRB's agent of choice might be Kroil. WD-40 might work and might even add a pleasant bouquet of flavor to your smoke. 3 in 1, and things of that nature, too.
The problem is -- and there may be a time factor here -- getting the oil down to the joiunt and then soaked into the entire threaded area. Could just be a matter of a daily dose for a week. I would think the best direction for the assualt would be through the bowl as through the stem would seem to be only a route to the bowl with no exit ramp.
There might be some gentle tapping and such that might help, and a combination of hot water or heat and ice water or cold that might help. But with that powdery corrosion, I have a feeling that THAT is what one has to address, or it will remain fused together.
I look forward to seeing other folk's opinions and tried and true methods shared here. I think OS, in particular, might have some extensive stuck stem experience. Of course, he does make a lot of tampers out of pipes and I have wondered why. Just as important here, maybe what NOT to do, based on experience of others. --RJ--
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ozark southpaw
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Steve,is it an ajusto? Almost has to be if it turns in both directions. Have you tried the freezer trick? I would bet that the problem is from the aluminum parts corroding as Mac said. Try this- mask off the shank-briar,not alum. ext. if it has one. Stick it in the freezer for 2-3 hours. Take it out and run warm water over the area where it screws together,keeping water of the wood if possible. Do that a couple of times. If that does not work try heating the threads with a heat gun or hair dryer or candle,be careful with the candle!! Let cool and repeat. The idea is that the corrosion may break loose from the repeated expansion and contraction. I that doesn't work use some WD-40 or such with the heat. Do not- I repeat do NOT get out that hammer or the pliers!! If all else fails,send it to me!
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drbridges
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I have gotten these successfully loose with a padded vise. I use shims of thick card stock to protect the stem, get the ajusto flange in a bind, & unscrew it. The Author is the most challenging because of it's thickness. No vicegrips. No hammer.
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steverino
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Thanks guys, I was thinking along the lines of trying a pair of pliers with padded jaws to see if I could squeeze the stem hard enough to make it take hold, but I've never tried it so wasn't sure if it would be likely to crack or break. Wonder if it would help to heat it a little first to maybe make it a little more pliable? Or would I be likely to distort the shape with it softened up?
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LokoMac8
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| ozark southpaw wrote: | | Do not- I repeat do NOT get out that hammer or the pliers!! |
OS is more diplomatic than I am! I am from that "walk softly and carry a big stick" crowd. I also want IMMEDIATE RESULTS even knowing that haste makes waste.
I like DRB's advice of the vise rather than the vise grips. The flat face and layers of thick cardboard can do the trick. Unfortunately, my vise had never gotten set up after several moves. I did use the cardboard, but finally at the pressures I was working at, the "teeth", or whateveryoucallit, in the jaws did eventually make those marks. A soft cloth is no good at the forces we are talking about, though a piece of scrap leather of sufficient thickness, or even rubber might be a good cushion/gripper.
Of course, depending on the bit material and the age and condition, THERE IS ALWAYS A CHANCE THAT THE BIT WILL BREAK/SHATTER/SPLINTER if enough force is applied in an attempt to squeeze the Ajustomatic system hard enough to lock it. It's not a job for the fainthearted nor a one of a kind pipe. OS's best advice is probably his recommendation to send it to him. --RJ--
P.S. It just came to mind, but if I were designing something to do the job -- and maybe they are available -- I would use two of those rubber strap tight wrenches that tightenup around what you are trying to turn. I don't know if they make them that small, but this way you could apply all the pressure right at the joint and squeeze in oppiste directions with ONE HAND, basically applying pressure in opposite directions. The strap around the briar shank would help "support" the briar, and perhaps ensure that the shank does not break, or the aluminum insert having the tendency to turn in the shank. --RJ--
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ted
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WHOA. All those are ok, but the simplest is usually the best. Hold the bowl in your left hand. Get a good grip around the bit with your right.
Bend the two as if you were gently trying to break out the bit......While bending downward, snap your wrists...left one forward...right one rearward. May take a few "pops", but almost always works....ted
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drbridges
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ted's method often works. It is kinda of scary to bind your pipe as if you are trying to break it, because you feel that you might. I've encountered some used pipes that were too stubborn for the bend/twist/pop technique.
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ozark southpaw
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You guys scare me!! Twist -pop!! Yikes!! But I do see what you mean.
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BWThomas
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| ozark southpaw wrote: | | I that doesn't work use some WD-40 or such with the heat. Do not- I repeat do NOT get out that hammer or the pliers!! If all else fails,send it to me! |
OS is spot on with the WD-40. I had an old pipe with a threaded aluminum fitting. Found the pipe after years of it sitting in an old tool box. Applied the WD for a few days, came right apart. The WD-40 didn't seem to affect the briar at all. Flushed it out with alcohol several times
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LokoMac8
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| ozark southpaw wrote: | | You guys scare me!! Twist -pop!! Yikes!! But I do see what you mean. |
Ha! Ha! Scares me, too, OS! I am one of those dumb, strong types with no control over the muscles. I am sure that the tough Sparta Grabows can take it, but those dainty old Linkman's shanks will shatter just like brittle plastic -- I've got a couple of fine examples of those buggers which only serve now as "cutaway" examples of early American pipe construction . . . and one of them still has the threads welded in the aluminum fitting. --RJ--
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steverino
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Just a quick report - I tried ted's method and it worked. No breakage or other problems. Once I got the stem out, I cleaned up the threads and put it back on the pipe and it still wants to stick. What could I treat the threads with to keep it from sticking? Does vaseline work for this?
I an Eldorado that the ajusto mechanism was seized up on. I soaked it in alcohol for half an hour or so and tried it again and it worked fine. The threads on this one don't stick in the shank, they work fine. But after I got the stem lined up, the ajusto seemed to seize up again. Any suggestions on how to keep the ajusto in good working order?
We're getting ready to leave for a week at the beach and I'm not sure what my internet capabilities are going to be, so if I don't respond, it's not intentional!
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BWThomas
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beeswax. anything else tends to 'creep' and will be absorbed by the briar if it comes into contact.
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ted
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We buffed the threads with graphite. Beeswax should certainly work.
In a "pinch" you might try a #2 pencil....you know that....ted
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BWThomas
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| ted wrote: | We buffed the threads with graphite.
In a "pinch" you might try a #2 pencil....you know that....ted |
Another trade secret revealed and entered into the archives!
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ozark southpaw
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Steve,for that sticking ajusto,heat the stem under hot water. Try not to get the tenon hot. Stick it in the pipe and try. Once you get it broke loose keep turning it for several rounds. Remove, dab some alcohol around it and crank it again. Repeat a few times. Usually will see crud working out around the tenon.
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LokoMac8
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| ted wrote: | | In a "pinch" you might try a #2 pencil....you know that....ted |
I guess I am always in a pinch! The pencil works great on both push stems and on the threads of stems. And a little dab'll do ya (maybe that was Brylcream -- do they even still make that stuff?) --RJ--
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ozark southpaw
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Stuck stemA word of caution when using the "twist and Pop" method on the Duke lines with the Ajusto. I was going through some of my pipes a couple of days ago to see which ones I might thin out,either to sell or trade. Picked up this little Red Color Duke and when I tried the ajusto it did not want to unscrew. So I did the "twist and Pop". It didn't unscrew but did pop! About middle of the stem just where the drilling for the filter end. The stem is VERY thin in that area!! I fixed it by drilling some small holes in both pieces and used some JB Weld to glue it back together. Super glue does not work well on vulcanite . Trouble with the JB is it takes several hours to set up and trying to keep the two pieces together in perfect alignment was a trick. Finally resorted to a piece of masking tape. Turns out I did not have it perfectly aligned but it was close enough that I could wet sand it back into proper shape. A black sharpie hid the thin gray line of the JB.although the sharpie is a different shade of black than the vulcanite and does show. Waxing helped hide it some what.
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drbridges
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That is why I favor using a padded vise over the twist & pop. But everything carries a risk.
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ted
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Strong as "goats breath".
Great repair job though..ted
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